Iceland's Bell

Ăingvellir church, Taylor Barnard, 1862
Richardâs extended essay on the times of Iceland's Bell :
If you love the 18th century, chances are you have a favourite historical novelist. Itâs a boom area in literature â and an opportunity for readers to slip, for a few hours, into a world of classical terraces, elegant ballrooms, porticoed mansions and rolling parkland. But in the right hands, readers have shown themselves more than willing to move beyond Austen-esque Georgian England and into ever more exotic terrain. Rose Tremainâs 1999 Whitbread award-winner Music and Silence, for example, found a wide readership for a story set in the Royal court of 1630s Denmark.
So hereâs a historical novel also set in part at the Danish royal court, covering (roughly) the period 1700-1730: the age of the Great Northern War. Epic in scope, it sweeps across nations and seas, a story of oppression, suffering and intrigue; of boisterous humour, deep poetry and star-crossed romance. Itâs by a great novelist; in fact, a Nobel laureate. And yet itâs barely known in the English-speaking world. Itâs called Äșslandsklukkan â Icelandâs Bell â and itâs by the Icelandic writer HalldĂłr Laxness.
To be fair, until recently youâd have had to have read it in Icelandic, or maybe German. Incredibly, Icelandâs Bell was only translated into English in 2003 (it was first published in 1945). Philip Roughtonâs translation (which Iâve used throughout this post; with Icelandic letters such as Ä [pronounced âthâ] used about as consistently as Blogger allows me; apologies to Icelandic readers) has only now given this extraordinary novel to English-speakers. But the 18th century-loving community still seems to have been rather slow to seize on it.
Maybe thatâs because Laxness is best-known as a literary modernist; the author of powerful social-realist novels like Independent People (1934) and visionary psychedelia (Under The Glacier â 1968). You certainly wouldnât guess from the cover of the Vintage edition that this was a historical novel.
Maybe itâs because of the notorious English-speakerâs allergy to literature in translation (though if you can handle Tolkienâs imaginary names and places, you should be able to cope with Laxnessâ genuine Icelandic ones). And maybe itâs because when you open Icelandâs Bell, you enter an authentic, brilliantly realised 18th-century world thatâs startlingly different from anything in Austen or Georgette Heyer.
At the start of the 18th century, ReykjavĂk simply didnât exist as anything more than a tiny fishing settlement, and it doesnât feature in Icelandâs Bell (for Laxnessâ take on ReykjavĂk, try his enchanting coming-of-age novel The Fish Can Sing). But the fact that this was one of the biggest and most impressive residences in Iceland gives you some idea what to expect in the novel. True, itâs a story of noblemen, elegant ladies, country squires and great estates â but donât picture Palladian mansions and jardins Ă lâanglaises. A couple of the locations featured in the novel survive today. BessastaÄir, just outside modern ReykjavĂk, was the seat of the Danish regent, and itâs still the residence of the President of Iceland.
This is where JĂłn HreggviÄsson is imprisoned near the start of the novel, and although it was extensively rebuilt from the 1760s onwards, itâs still on the same site. Hereâs how it looked at the start of the 19th century. Remember, in the period of Icelandâs Bell this was by some way the biggest and most impressive building in Iceland â and it wasnât even as grand as the structures in this picture:

BessastaĂ°ir, c1834
Only slightly less imposing were the houses of the Danish Monopoly Merchants â the officials licensed by the Danish crown to control and manage all trade with its colony of Iceland. From 1602 to 1786 trade with Iceland was rigorously controlled by Denmark, and in the period of Icelandâs Bell all trade was forbidden except through licensed Merchants in designated monopoly ports. The result, unsurprisingly, was poverty and even famine. Most Icelanders were subsistence farmers or fishermen, living in turf-roofed cottages. (In the novel, JĂłn HreggviÄson is initially convicted as a âcord-thiefâ, and throughout Icelandâs Bell, a shortage of fishing-cord is reported as Icelandâs most urgent problem. Icelanders couldnât even feed themselves without it). In such circumstances, the Monopoly Merchantâs houses were symbols of unimaginable power and wealth.
And when you look at the surviving examples â such as the HusiÄ in the monopoly port of Eyrarbakki (1765), today a museum â itâs impossible not to do a double-take. This is the very house where Squire MagnĂșs of BraeÄratunga passes out in the pigsty after selling his wife for a keg of brennivĂn, in Part 2 of Icelandâs Bell (Laxness stayed in Eyrarbakki to complete the novel). Itâs about as grand as Georgian architecture got in Iceland. And itâs not exactly Blenheim Palace:

HĂșsiĂ° at Eyrarbakki
This is the world in which Laxness chose to set his great historical novel. Like many of his literary choices, it proved controversial amongst his fellow Icelanders. Laxness was at the height of his career; ten years later, in 1955, heâd be awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature. He worked on the book over the period 1942-45. On 17th June 1944, after seven centuries of foreign rule, Iceland finally achieved independence from Denmark - though with the superpowers already positioning themselves for the Cold War to come, the young Republicâs future looked far from secure. National pride, and nationalist passions, were burning high. Now, at this historic moment, Icelandâs leading writer published a novel set in the most humiliating period of Icelandâs history.
Laxness makes his intentions clear from his very first page:
There was a time, it says in books, that the Icelandic people had only one national treasure: a bell. The bell hung fastened to the ridgepole at the gable-end of the courthouse at Thingvellir by OxarĂĄ. It was rung for court hearings and before executions, and was so ancient that no-one knew its true age any longer. The bell had been cracked for many years before this story begins, and the oldest folk thought they could remember it as having a clearer chime. All the same, the old folk still cherished it.
Anyone whoâs ever been on holiday to Iceland (and got further than the Blue Lagoon) will have visited Thingvellir â the breathtaking natural gorge where, for nearly a thousand years, the Icelandic Parliament, the Althingi met annually in the open air. Today itâs a World Heritage Site; a wooden church (dating from the 19th century) has replaced the 17th-century courthouse. The old bell, sent as a gift to Iceland by King Olaf of Norway in 1015, and known to Icelanders under colonial rule as âthe nationâs sole possessionâ, really existed. And what happens next â like many of the events in Icelandâs Bell â really happened, too:
One year when the king decreed that the people of Iceland were to relinquish all of their brass and copper so that Copenhagen could be rebuilt following the war, men were sent to fetch the ancient bell at Thingvellir by OxarĂĄ.
The kingâs hangman comes from BessasaÄir with a work party of convicts, and the bell is cut down.
The pale emissary took a sledgehammer from a saddlebag, placed the ancient bell of Iceland on the doorstep before the courthouse, and gave the bell a blowâŠthe bell broke in two along its crack.
The nationâs last remaining treasure has been hacked down and shattered. Laxnessâ message could hardly be more clear. He hasnât just set his novel in the darkest period in Icelandic historyâheâs beginning his story at its absolute lowest point. But thereâs worse to come. Thereâs a famine, and an epidemic. By the end of Icelandâs Bell, the island itself has been put up for sale by the king of Denmarkâand even he canât find a buyer.
Meanwhile - and almost as an aside - Laxness has set his story in motion. As the cord-thief JĂłn HreggviÄson unwillingly cuts down the bell, he cracks a scurrilous joke about the king. Thatâs a criminal offence. The legal action that ensues becomes the driving force of the whole novel, expanding, twisting back on itself, and eventually, over three decades drawing the whole of Icelandic society into its coils â right up to the king himself. Itâs a classic Icelandic narrative gambit. Throughout the 1940s, Laxness was engaged in editing new editions of the medieval Icelandic sagas. The single, rash, action leading to a legal dispute that embroils the whole nation (and punctuated by set-piece courtroom battles at Thingvellir), is an archetypal Saga narrative. Laxness conceived Icelandâs Bell as a modern saga, and the famous line from NjĂĄlâs Saga (known to every Icelander) is a sort of unspoken ground-bass to Icelandâs Bell:
âWith laws shall our land be built up, but with lawlessness laid wasteâ.
Laxness borrows a literary style from the sagas, too. We never read his charactersâ thoughts or inner emotional conflicts. Like the anonymous saga-poets, Laxness simply describes their words and actions â and lets us infer the emotions for ourselves. Instead of manipulating the readerâs feelings, Laxness prompts them. The effect is clear, objective and yet, at the bookâs great climaxes, overwhelmingly moving.
And make no mistake, this is a story of epic range and emotion. JĂłn HreggviÄsonâs decades-long struggle for justice is its backbone, and thereâs no doubt that HreggviÄson â an illiterate, impertinent peasant-farmer, with seemingly endless reserves of stoicism and a head full of garbled medieval ballads â is the novelâs central figure. HreggviÄson (and the lawsuits he pursued from 1683 to 1715) really existed, but Laxness makes this near-forgotten 17th-century criminal a figure of universal significance.
Heâs the eternal underdog; resourceful, facetious and seemingly indestructible. Icelandic readers will have found traces of favourite saga-characters in his make-up â the buffoonish Björn from NjĂĄlâs Saga, the bullish GrettĂr the Strong, and of course the great trickster-poet Egill SkallagrĂmsson. English readers might be reminded of Baldrick. But HreggviÄson is very much his own man. Whether conscripted into the Danish army or wrestling with trolls on an Icelandic heath; flogged, abused, and pushed around by the mighty, he always comes back with the proud assertion that heâs descended from the saga-hero Gunnar of HliÄarendi â and throws in an apposite verse of his favourite Elder Ballad of Pontus.
Against his story, and intertwined with it, another very different narrative unfolds. And for many readers, the romance of the Lady SnaefriÄur, âIcelandâs Sunâ, and the Kingâs Antiquary, Lord Arnas Arnaeus makes Icelandâs Bell one of the greatest love-stories in modern literature. SnaefriÄur (literally âFair as Snowâ) is one of Laxnessâ most beloved creations: daughter of Icelandâs senior magistrate, sister-in-law of the Bishop of SkĂĄlholt, sheâs universally admired as Icelandâs loveliest and most nobly-born heiress.

SkĂĄlholt, 1772, painting by John Cleveley
We meet her first as a figure of fairy-tale enchantment:
She wore no hat, and her head shone with dishevelled hair. Her slender body was childishly supple, her eyes unworldly as the blue of heaven. Her comprehension was still limited only to the beauty of things, rather than to their usefulness, and thus the smile she displayed as she stepped into this house had nothing to do with human life.
But SnaefriÄur will soon learn about human life, and in full measure. Like GuĂ°rĂșn ĂsvĂfursdĂłttir, the commanding heroine of Laxdaela Saga, sheâs proud, determined and idealistic. Sheâs also in love â and is prepared to break the law, and bring about her own social and financial ruin, rather than betray her emotions. One night at Thingvellir, she springs JĂłn HreggviÄson from the condemned cell and sends him with a ring and a message to her beloved in Denmark. Determined that if she canât marry the âbest of menâ, sheâd rather have the worst, she marries the brutish drunkard MagnĂșs of BraeÄratunga. Meanwhile, she sacrifices her wealth, dignity and youth to pursue a long series of lawsuits against her true love, Arnas Arnaeus â who has ignored HreggviÄsonâs message (but taken up his case), returned the ring, and quit Iceland in pursuit of a higher calling.
Fire in Copenhagen, the final volume of Icelandâs Bell is dominated by his story, just as the second, The Fair Maiden is dominated by SnaefriÄur, and the first, Icelandâs Bell, focuses on JĂłn HreggviÄson. Court Assessor Arnas Arnaeus, the Royal Antiquary, is the highest ranking Icelander at the Danish court, and at first sight heâs little more than another Jacobean dandy:
The aesthete in him spoke out from every seam, each pleat, every proportion in the cut of his clothing; his boots were of fine English leather. His wig, which he wore under his brimmed hat even amongst boors and beggars, was exquisitely fashioned, and was as smartly coiffured as if he were going to meet the king.
But he enters HreggviÄsonâs turf hovel in search of something more precious to him than his own status â fragments of old Icelandic parchments. His passion is the ancient literature of Iceland; to him, the proof that his stricken country once created great art. In his elegant Copenhagen townhouse, he collects a library of Icelandic sagas, ballads and poetry.
Meanwhile, he pays court (Fire in Copenhagen opens with a gorgeous set-piece description of a royal masque in the Danish capital), marries into money, and struggles to improve the lot of the Icelanders â making powerful enemies along the way. Itâs all of it necessary to protect his priceless manuscripts, and sacrificing the love of his life is just part of the price he decides to pay. The tragedy of their love is that SnaefriÄur understands this too:
âSnaefriÄurâ he said as she turned to leave. He was suddenly standing very close to her. âWhat else could I have done but give JĂłn HreggviÄson the ring?â
âNothing, Assessorâ, she said.
âI wasnât free,â he said. âI was bound by my work. Iceland owned me, the old books that I kept in Copenhagen â their demon was my demon, their Iceland was the only Iceland in existence. If I had come out in the spring on the Eyrarbakki ship, as I promised, I would have sold out Iceland. Every last one of my books would have fallen into the hands of my creditors. We would have ended up on some dilapidated estate, two highborn beggars. I would have abandoned myself to drink and would have sold you for brennivĂn, perhaps even cut off your head -"
She turned completely around and stared at him, then quickly took him by the hand, leaned her face in one swift movement up against his chest, and whispered:
âArnĂ.â
She said nothing more, and he stroked her fair and magnificent hair once, then let her leave as she had intended.
Laxness based Arnas on the great Icelandic antiquarian Ărni MagnĂșsson (1663-1730). MagnĂșsson, like Arnas Arnaeus, built a collection of Icelandic manuscripts in Copenhagen; and, like him, led a troubled personal life. And his collection, too, was badly damaged in the Great Fire of Copenhagen in 1728, which forms the dramatic climax of Icelandâs Bell. But unlike Arnasâ, it wasnât completely destroyed. Three decades after Iceland gained independence, and Icelandâs Bell was published, the Danish government started to repatriate the MagnĂșsson collection. Today, the manuscripts are protected by the Ărni MagnĂșsson Institute in ReykjavĂk, and the room that houses them in ReykjavĂkâs Culture House is a place of pilgrimage for lovers of European literature.

Great Fire of Copenhagen, 1728
HalldĂłr Laxness doesnât have quite such a happy end in store for his characters. But he wouldnât be the writer he is if he didnât somehow find hope in even the bleakest of circumstances. At one point in the novel, Arnas comments that his countrymenâs âone and only task is to keep their stories in memory until a better dayâ. In the closing pages of Icelandâs Bell, his lifeâs work is in ashes, Iceland is more abject than ever, and he has sacrificed love and career in vain. But one thing â one person â has survived it all; the indomitable JĂłn HreggviÄsson and his head full of poetry. Together, they ride to the harbour where HreggviÄsson, pardoned at last, is to take a ship back to Iceland. And as always, the illiterate cord-thief has a verse for the occasion:
âNow I shall teach you an introductory verse from the Elder Ballad of Pontus, that you have never heard before,â he said.
Then he recited this verse:
âFolk will marvel at the story,
There on Icelandâs shore
When HreggviÄssonâs old grey and hoary
Head comes home once more.â
After both had memorized the verse, they all sat in silence. The road was wet, causing the carriage to sway from side to side.
The Assessor remained lost in thought for some time, then finally looked at the farmer from Rein, smiled and said:
âJĂłn Marteinsson saved the SkĂĄlda. You were all that fell to my lotâ.
JĂłn HreggviÄsson said: âDoes my lord have any messages he would like me to deliver?ââŠ
âYou can tell them from me that Iceland has not been sold â not this time. Theyâll understand later. Then you can hand them your pardonâ.
âBut shouldnât I convey any greetings to anyone?â said JĂłn HreggviÄsson.
âYour old ruffled head â that shall be my greetingâ said the Professor Antiquitatum Danicarum.
Arnas Arnaeus gives his life to the written word. JĂłn HreggviÄsson canât even write, but his nationâs literary culture bubbles, unquenchably, beneath his âold ruffled headâ. It takes a writer of Laxnessâ vision to point out that a nationâs literature can survive without books â but not without its humanity. When Laxness was awarded the Nobel Prize in 1955, the Swedish Academyâs citation was:
For his vivid epic power, which has renewed the great narrative art of Iceland.
None of his novels embodies that spirit more stirringly than Icelandâs Bell. And nothing captures the spirit of the novel better than Laxnessâ response to his careerâs crowning moment. As the telegrams of congratulations poured in from around the world, Laxness realised that he couldnât respond to them all. So he decided to respond only to one â a message of âlycka til!â [congratulations!] from the Sundsvall Society of Pipe Layers, in northern Sweden.
In other words, sewage-workers. Praised by the whole world, Laxness was moved above all by the idea that âmen who bent double over pipes, deep in the ground, should climb out of their drains in the midst of the winter in Sundsvall, in order to shout âhurrah for literatureââ.

Icelandic turf house, early 19th century
Darien identifies with Icelandâs Bell:
âIf I could get away with a one-line introduction, I would: HalldĂłr Laxness rules.â
Thankfully Adam Haslett extends this introduction to thirteen pages: it is well worth the price of admission to Icelandâs Bell. Who is Adam Haslett? An acclaimed author, but more important to me, a devotee of Laxness--one who articulates with grace and style many of the reasons that I love Laxness so.
Haslett nails the characteristics of Laxness novels that make them so outstanding, he pinpoints the features of Icelandâs Bell that make it unique, and he delineates many of the qualities that make Laxness' writings so universal. Reading his introduction is enlightening. But we'll get back to Haslett in a bitâfirst, let's talk about the novel itself.
Icelandâs Bell was written a decade after Independent People. The plot is based on a historical event of the seventeenth century that resulted in forty years of litigation. The novel has a picaresque flavor and offers something to please every reader. It is much more than a historical novel: it contains elements of intrigue, drama, pathos, love, vivid landscapes and varying scenes, and colorful characters with idiosyncratic personalities.
A major character is the marginal farmer, JĂłn HreggviĂ°sson. JĂłn steals cord (fishing line), is forced into labor, and is charged with killing the (Danish) King's Hangman. (Itâs unclear whether JĂłn actually killed him or not.) He is conscripted into the Danish army, and his fortunes rise and fall. He becomes embroiled in the middle of a love affair between SnĂŠfrĂĂ°ur, the most beautiful woman in Iceland, and Arnas ArnĂŠs, a Royal Advisor modeled on the life of Ărni MagnĂșsson (the Icelandic book collector/scholar).
SnĂŠfrĂĂ°ur- âIcelandâs Sunâ - is the strongest, most compelling character in the book. Her fortunes also wax and wane, yet she is indomitable. She is willing to fight for her principles to the end, and the following speech conveys her determination and forthright nature and reveals the Icelandic sense of identity:
Excuse me for speaking up, excuse us for being a race of historians who forget nothing. But do not misunderstand me: I regret nothing that has happened, neither in words nor thoughts. It may be that the most victorious race is the one that is exterminated: I will not plead with words for mercy for Icelanders. We Icelanders are truly not too good to die. And life has meant nothing to us for a long time. But there is one thing that we can never lose while one man of this race, rich or poor, remains standing; and even in death this thing is never lost to us; that which is described in the old poem, and which we call fame: just so my father and my mother are not, though they are dust, called ignoble thieves.
This story moves from one incident, character, country, to another, and back again; from pain to humor, and back again; from the despicable yet delightfully sardonic JĂłn to the noble yet fatally stubborn SnĂŠfrĂĂ°ur. Itâs is typical Laxness Art.
And now, some quotes from Haslett:
âThe bleakness is so total, and perhaps more importantly is delivered in prose so thoroughly nonchalant, that laughter is the only possible relief.â
â...we see the unflinching generosity Laxness has toward all his characters.â
And the one I truly identify with:
âReading my first Laxness novel is one of those experiences that I look back on with a kind of jealous fondness, loving the memory of it but wishing it hadnât ended.â

Iceland on the Carta Marina by Olaus Magnus
Tamara examines a âhodge-podgeâ:
Icelandâs Bell is set in Iceland in the late 17th century when Iceland was a Danish colony. The novel, a hodge-podge of different elements, is geographically and politically broad in scope.
The three parts span a couple of decades. Part one follows the mishaps of JĂłn Hreggvidsson, a drunken fisherman, punished for stealing a fishing line, accused of murder, awaiting execution in jail, and escaping with the help of SnĂŠfridur, the magistrateâs daughter, known as the Icelandâs sun for her beauty. Embroiled in the political turmoil of the times, JĂłn has a penchant to burst into Icelandic song whenever the mood takes him.
Part two, which takes place years later, focuses on SnĂŠfridurâs trials and tribulations with her drunken husband Magnus. She is in love with Arnas ArnĂŠus, a character based on the historical Arni Magnusson who collected ancient manuscripts of Icelandic sagas with a goal of recording and reviving Icelandâs glory.
Part three takes place in Copenhagen where the war for political control of Iceland is waged. SnĂŠfridur has gone to Denmark to reverse her fatherâs conviction by appealing to the Danish authorities. She speaks with eloquence, passion, and pride in Icelandâs cultural heritage while decrying the injustices it has suffered. ArnĂŠus is tempted with the governorship of Iceland by German merchants on the verge of purchasing Iceland from Denmark. The novel concludes with a brief description of the fire in Copenhagen.
Throw in the mix a host of complex civil and criminal litigations; a critique of trials and legal procedures; examples of Denmarkâs colonial exploitation of Iceland, stripping it of its resources to finance the whim and exploits of the Danish king; the poverty, famine, and abysmal living conditions of the Icelandic people; references to Icelandic folklore heroes and heroines; citations from the sagas; and then pepper the narrative with an abundance of Latin phrases for good measure. If all this sounds complicated, that is because it is.
Laxness populates his canvas with aristocrats, drunkards, criminals, and hypocrites. In the tradition of Icelandic sagas, his characters have no interiority. We are not made privy to their feelings or thoughts and see them exclusively through their words and actions. Laxness portrays them without judgment. Even the most outlandish, horrific experiences and actions are described with a detached, dark humor that borders on being cartoonish. The narrative rambles; the dialogue is choppy with characters seemingly talking at each other. The pronunciation guide at the beginning and the extensive notes at the end are helpful. But the constant need to refer to the end notes to understand references and context disrupts the flow of the narrative.
This dense, somewhat unwieldy narrative provides a panoramic view of the suffering of the Icelandic people under the colonial yoke of Denmark. What emerges from this rollicking, contemporary Icelandic saga is Laxnessâ love for his country and his respect for its rich cultural heritage.
Recommended with some reservations.
First posted on the website of Tamara Agha-Jaffar, used by permission.
Christinnaâs extended essay on BellâŠ
HallgrĂmurâs references to IBâŠ
Henning looks at IB from a German point of viewâŠ
Flemingâs ruminations on Icelandâs BellâŠ
Bradâs NYT review of BellâŠ
Edith reviews Icelandâs BellâŠ
Valur revisits Bell in The ReykjavĂk GrapevineâŠ
Egillâs essay on Arni Magnusson in Literary HubâŠ
Publishing history:
Äșslandsklukkan (I, II, III)
Helgafell, ReykajavĂk, 1943, 1944, 1945
Translated by Philip Roughton:
Icelandâs Bell
Vintage International, New York, 2003, introduction by Adam Haslett
âNothing, Assessorâ, she said.
âI wasnât free,â he said. âI was bound by my work. Iceland owned me, the old books that I kept in Copenhagen â their demon was my demon, their Iceland was the only Iceland in existence. If I had come out in the spring on the Eyrarbakki ship, as I promised, I would have sold out Iceland. Every last one of my books would have fallen into the hands of my creditors. We would have ended up on some dilapidated estate, two highborn beggars. I would have abandoned myself to drink and would have sold you for brennivĂn, perhaps even cut off your head -"
She turned completely around and stared at him, then quickly took him by the hand, leaned her face in one swift movement up against his chest, and whispered:
âArnĂ.â
She said nothing more, and he stroked her fair and magnificent hair once, then let her leave as she had intended.
Then he recited this verse:
âFolk will marvel at the story,
There on Icelandâs shore
When HreggviÄssonâs old grey and hoary
Head comes home once more.â
After both had memorized the verse, they all sat in silence. The road was wet, causing the carriage to sway from side to side.
The Assessor remained lost in thought for some time, then finally looked at the farmer from Rein, smiled and said:
âJĂłn Marteinsson saved the SkĂĄlda. You were all that fell to my lotâ.
JĂłn HreggviÄsson said: âDoes my lord have any messages he would like me to deliver?ââŠ
âYou can tell them from me that Iceland has not been sold â not this time. Theyâll understand later. Then you can hand them your pardonâ.
âBut shouldnât I convey any greetings to anyone?â said JĂłn HreggviÄsson.
âYour old ruffled head â that shall be my greetingâ said the Professor Antiquitatum Danicarum.
â...we see the unflinching generosity Laxness has toward all his characters.â
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